Benefits of our Outdoor Wood|Coal Boiler

Have the boiler where YOU want it!  Next to your wood pile - OUTSIDE!

You can get your home hotter than any heat pump or geothermal system ever will - plus get the bugs, trash, bark and smoke outside and zero out your electric or fuel bill!  The warmest air from the vents in a heat pump or geothermal system is 110 F.  This feels like cold air blowing around whereas our boiler will put out temperatures to 180 F!

You can put the boiler where ever you want it.  Next to your wood pile which is very convenient or maybe right out the door so you can throw a piece of wood in without putting on your jacket.  You may want it hidden behind a barn or outbuilding or even in such a building.  The choice is up to you because you can purchase 250' of Pex pipe in a continuous run that does not have to be spliced and pumps are available for the distance.  Remember the minimum distance from flammables is 5 feet, according to Underwriter Laboratories (UL).

No splitting is needed because we have a 75 CFM forced air induction fan that feeds oxygen into the bottom of the fire like a blacksmith’s forge; burning everything and anything. Whole logs burn longer and better. 

That blower, in combination with our chimney design which traps smoke, heat and more importantly the gases from the wood in the firebox gives you a better than 75% efficiency rating - approaching the 85% number of these new $15,000 EPA Models that must burn super dry wood that has less than 20% moisture content.  This means drying wood undercover for 2 years.  Who does that!

We now use 1 piece of metal to build our firebox AND the water jacket is formed the say way, which is very much like a cylinder because there is only one weld in a cylinder and leaks usually start at welds; this means 2/3 less welds!  We start with one sheet of metal that is 3/8" thick and use a 430-ton press brake to form the metal into the shape of the firebox and weld it to the same thickness as the firebox to both the firebox bottom and water jacket bottom.  The water jacket bottom is either 3/8" thick or 1/2" thick, depending on the firebox thickness you choose.

No one else in the world does that!

All HyproTherm Models include one pump installed with flanges. The boiler also includes a second set of ports, a built-in heat exchanger to heat your domestic hot water, a pull out ash tray, a reliable digital Ranco Aquastat plus it is pre-wired and includes a water level gauge and an analog thermometer as well. They also have a super-thick, heavy-duty 5/8” stove poker, a chimney cap and dual motion light.

This model includes a standard 3/8 inch thick firebox AND the water jacket bottom, the most vulnerable part of the furnace, is also 3/8 inch thick! We have the perfect boiler to serve as a furnace for you!! 

We have a hot water coil too, in our boiler, which will save you over $300.00 in installation parts; such as a sidearm or plate exchanger plus the needed anti-scald valve, that you would need with other manufacturers.

We have the thickest and strongest firebox made anywhere AND our water jacket bottom (the most vulnerable part) is ALSO the same 3/8" standard or 1/2" (optional) thickness - as the firebox you order! WOW!  No one, anywhere builds them that strong!

Our boilers are all pre-wired with extra outlets.

All front loaders (except for the smallest Econo 85) have a pull-out ash tray; while most manufacturers don't even have grates, let alone CAST-IRON grates - standard!

The best option for you is the HyproTherm boiler because it is a SIMPLE boiler; No electronics; NO circuit boards, NO computerized parts and we have a BUILT-IN heat exchanger to heat your hot water tank AND it will heat 2 different buildings, simply by adding one pump.

The boilers have an extra set of ports, to heat additional buildings.

The door size on all models is 26 1/2" and a really big opening of 24" X 24". The wood doesn’t have to be split.
The doors are 3-way adjustable and weigh a whopping 165 lb and are cool to the touch!

We have the "stay cool" handles and the double-latching ash door with the removable ash tray, with two carrying handles!

The firebox is formed with a 430-ton press brake, instead of welding six flat slabs of ¼ inch steel together like most other manufacturers do, with no real strength and 12 welds with their inherent leaks.

Hyprotherm Furnace has a 20-Year ON-SITE Warranty; VERY IMPORTANT that you won't have to pay shipping to get it repaired! 

Hyprotherm is the best boiler because it has a removable Pull-out Ash Tray!  You don't have to open the firebox door when the firebox is 800 degrees or more, let all of the precious heat out, kill the fire to be able to shovel out the ashes.  This also means that you also have to restart a fire in the dreadful winter cold, which is no fun!

Our method is a whole lot easier.  Pull out the ash tray, even when the firebox is blazing hot with a roaring fire and dump the ashes out in a fire-proof metal container with a lid, reinsert the ash tray and keep on going!

ALL Off-the-Shelf PARTS; nothing proprietary that you have to get from us; No electronics; NO circuit boards, NO computerized parts (like on the Wood Master and Central Boiler and many others)!

Hyprotherm has the superior cast iron coal grates that do absolutely great with wood too; lasting even longer than metal grates.

They all come pre-wired with a reliable RANCO aquastat that will keep your water temperature to within 3 degrees.

Hyprotherm Furnace has the best of the newest insulation; a combination of ceramic wool and a product from Knauf. This was done after insulation engineers told us that fiberglass insulation was only good for a home, where you are trying to keep 75 degree heat in.

It is a different story when you are trying to contain 800 + degrees in a firebox; thus the new and better insulation.

Hyprotherm has one pump installed WITH flanges; many others don't give you any pump PLUS we give you an extra set of ports for another pump to heat another building.

We have a 75 CFM blower in the back, with an inexpensive solenoid activated damper to shut-off the air supply so that when the fan shuts off, no air is drafting through the fan to fuel the fire with oxygen. 

You get a real nice hot fire, so that there are no unburned pieces of wood or coal left over, like on a Central Boiler to blow air (oxygen) up through the grates, just like a blacksmith's forge! Absolutely necessary for coal and better for complete wood burning.

SAVE $35.00 to $65.00 a month by turning your hot water heater OFF! Supply all the heat needed for your domestic hot water; virtually endless hot water by using wood! 

SUMMARY:

Our boilers have flat cast-iron grates standard, a 3/8" thick firebox; that is 50% thicker than common 1/4" fireboxes OR a half inch thick option; (100% thicker than common 1/4" fireboxes) and includes a pullout ash tray for easy clean-outs, the standard pump, a second set of ports for another pump or building and the built-in heat exchanger for the domestic hot water - as well as an automatic, solenoid activated damper on the forced air fan/draft blower in the back, a chimney cap AND last but not least, a 3/8" or 1/2" thick water jacket bottom option; the most vulnerable part; now at least 3 times thicker.

Remember, there is no negative to getting a bigger furnace because it is not like purchasing an air conditioner where if you get one too big, it becomes inefficient. It is simply like getting a bigger fuel tank so that it will hold more fuel and you will need to fill it less often.

ELIMINATE the risk of CHIMNEY FIRES! 

Radiant Heat Warmth


A wood boiler will provide radiant floor heat and is the best type of heat and keeps your floors toasty warm! radiant floor heat is about 20% more efficient and you can keep the water temperature much lower; saving you even more wood or coal!

The water that runs through your floor for radiant floor heat is never any warmer than 140°. Hotter temperatures will crack the floor if you have concrete and may warp your wood if it is any hotter.

One nice thing about radiant heat, is that it keeps the lower 10 feet of your room the warmest. This eliminates heat going up to the ceiling and out the roof where it is ultimately lost. This is one of the reasons for the great savings with radiant heat. this is fabulous for rooms that have tall ceilings, such as in great rooms.

it is also very nice not having air blowing around. This means that air is not blowing around either and it ends up feeling warmer.

Hydronic Heat, means heat distributed via water.

Radiant Heat is heat transferred through space from a surface without being carried by air or other fluids. It feels like warmth from the sun. For instance, you are out for a walk on a cool day, then you are drenched with sudden warmth from the sun! That's what Radiant Heat feels like. IT WARMS YOU ALL OVER!

How Hydronic Radiant Floors Work

Here is how Hydronic Radiant Floors work. Water is circulated through special tubing, called PEX Tubing, that runs under the floor. The warm piping radiates heat through your floor, making it toasty warm.

Toasty Warm Feet


Radiant Floor Heat is more efficient because it heats you directly. The room's humidity is also more ideal. It gradually releases radiant energy to the cool objects in the room. The warmth is greater at floor level and decreases as it reaches the ceiling. This is both more comfortable (Your head feels cooler and your feet are warmer) This type of heating is not new! It goes back to the Roman Times, and is still a very popular way to heat in Europe.

Think about installing Radiant Floor Heat in your new or existing home. The benefits of this superior heating system include, even warmth, higher efficiency, quieter, cleaner, cozier and healthier heating!

if you have an existing home, you may be able to put radiators in their; either the old-style cast-iron radiators, baseboard Hydronic heaters ( they look just like electric baseboard heaters except they carry water and are extremely more efficient), newer style radiators that looked much better but then again if you have an older house then the old-style cast-iron radiators may look very good - and are usually very cheap if they are but used!

a new construction we usually recommend that you put Pex pipe in your flooring. This can either be on the sub-floor or underneath the sub-floor, with the finished material on top - be it ceramic for porcelain tile, carpet or Hardwood.

Warm Cozy Floors
Warmboard Radiant Heat

Double Run 

This gives you more heat between the joists and better heat distribution than a single run of pipe.

The metal plates are nailed to the sub-floor and hold the Pex pipe in place.

The metal plates transfer the heat across the floor so that you don't have hot and cold strips. However, this way you have to heat up the sub-floor first before the heat can be transferred to the flooring.

A better way - in new construction - is just the piping on top of the sub-floor. This way you are heating the finished flooring instead of all the wood in the sub-floor.

This is accomplished by putting floaters on the floor, as spacers for the Pex pipe.

An even better way is to use a pre-made product that has grooves cut it to accommodate the Pex pipe and it already has the aluminum on it (and in the grooves) to spread the heat over the whole floor. The best product that I have found is called Warmboard.  Warmboard is a structural radiant panel that is 1-1/8” thick, made of Douglas Fir 7 ply plywood, and is sold in full-faced tongue and groove.  It comes in convenient 4’ x 8’ sheets.


<< Warmboard radiant heat

This is what constitutes your sub-floor. Once you put it down over your floor joists or truss, your floor is done! This saves a lot of extra work. Simply put the Pex pipe in the grooves and put your flooring over it. You will end up with a VERY solid and WARM floor!

It is not the cheapest on the market but it certainly is the best!


 SLAB Radiant Heat can be a DIY project.

You start with a bed of gravel and then put insulation down. This is a must so that you are heating the ground. Is usually required under most building codes, as well.

I prefer a product called TheBarrier. YOU CAN PURCHASE IT from Ted at Abbott Boiler Parts!

It is better then the hard foam panels - pink or blue - because it is extremely flexible and will not crack or break up when you walk on it. Remember, you have to walk on it to put the wire down and tie the Pex pipe to it and then the workers will be pouring concrete and walking all over it.


TheBarrier insulation is a flexible type that comes in a roll and it has its adhesive strips to attach it to the piece next to it. This is designed so that it forms both a vapor barrier and a radon barrier in one simple step. If you use the big sheets of Styrofoam, you would then have to go back and put plastic over it the form the barrier needed.

Most people put 6" x 6" wire down, that comes in a roll. You will then use wire ties to loosely attached the Pex pipe to the wire. This stops the Pex pipe from floating to the surface and ruining your nice new floor.

Some people use rebar instead of the wire which you'll give you an even stronger floor. Sometimes the rebar is supported so that it isn't sitting on the bottom.

Concrete Radiant Pex Pipe

We recommend oxygen barrier pipe to use in concrete.  Be sure the water temperature nevers exceeds 140 F or you can crack your floor.  This photo shows an upstairs floor - not a basement slab. That is why the concrete is so thin, because it is extremely heavy. A typical basement slab is 4 inches thick.



Pex Tubing in Concrete Slab
TheBarrier

TheBarrier

This photo is of my basement, with the Pex secured to the 6" x 6" wire mesh, before the concrete is poured. This way, it does not float to the surface, ruining your nice smooth concrete floors!

More photos and diagrams of Pex layout (6"-9"-12") spacing, depending on location being heated (bedroom or garage) and proximity to outside walls - are available!


Pex before concrete poured

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