The BEST OUTDOOR WOOD FURNACE;
HyProTherm!
Discover WHY we can say that!
We specialize in that other manufactures don't do!
We have machine loading top loaders, Water-Less furnaces
(no water means NO RUST and the thickest fireboxes
AND water jackets in the WORLD! (3/8" and 1/2" THICK)
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Most important!
We are the ONLY manufacturer that builds a
firebox that is 1/2" thick.
Even our standard firebox is 3/8" thick
- twice as thick as most of the competition!
That is why ours don't rust through,
split, crack and warp!
We have NEVER had even one failure
with our
3/8" thick firebox;
let alone our super thick 1/2" thick firebox.
Our water jacket bottom (the most vulnerable part)
is also 3/8" or 1/2" THICK!
NO OTHER MANUFACTURER DOES THAT ANYWHERE!
We don't have ANY fancy electronics
or circuit boards.
ALL of our parts are
off-the-shelf parts,
that are available anywhere.
There's nothing proprietary that you have to buy from us.
We have a PULL-OUT ASH PAN
on ALL MODELS except for the Econo85 Boiler at $3495
Many companies don't have a
forced air fan.
Others have a fan that blows air through
the front door into the side of the fire.
We took it one step further and
have a fan in back,
that blows air up through the grates
and feeds oxygen into the bottom of the fire,
just like a blacksmith's forge!
Our warranty covers parts AND
labor!
Many warranties only cover parts or
you have to ship the furnace back to the manufacturer!
OUR WARRANTY provides ON-SITE service for any major problem like a leak,
so YOU don't have to ship it back and PAY for SHIPPING (there AND back to you)
like 85% of the manufacturers demand!
Manufacturer/Brand
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Firebox
Thickness - Information taken from their website |
HyProTherm Outdoor Wood
Furnace
|
Thicker
than 1 Gauge! .375"
Almost 1/2"
OPTION! |
Central Boiler
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Their website only
says "heavy gauge" but forums say 1/4" or .250" |
The Homesteader
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7 gauge or approx. .1793"
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Lil'House Outside Wood Heater
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16 gauge .060"
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Mahoning
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(approx 3
gauge) .250" |
Hydro Fire
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10 gauge .1345"
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Hardy
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Uses both 14
gauge .0747" and
16 gauge (Firebox, Water Tank, Base, Ash Bin, and Doors)
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Heatmor
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10 gauge .1345"
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Aqua Therm
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Models 275 and 345 have a 3/16” (0.1875")
model 145 has a 1/8” .125"
(11 gauge)
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Pro-Fab Industries - Empyre Wood Burning
Furnace
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10 gauge .1345"
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Taylor
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Models
275 and 345 have a 3/16 (0.1875")
firebox, and the model 145 has a 1/8 (.125")
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Bryan Furnace
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1/4" (.250")
and 10 gauge (.1345") combo
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Wood Master
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1/4" (.250")
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HydroFire
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10 gauge .1345"
|
Nature's Comfort Boiler |
1/4"
(2 models can be upgraded to 3/8") |
We custom build every furnace for
you,
so when you order you can specify
your choice of 20 great colors
and over 8000 combinations!
Our furnace is SO strong, we can suspend
it from the chimney alone!
This is how we move and load every one of
them!!
Had a little fun with Photoshop here but
this is really being
lifted and moved by the chimney, made of 1/4" thick steel!
That's the way we always move them, from day to day :o)
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NOW with a 20-YEAR WARRANTY!
Building Quality Wood Furnaces
for 44 Years
Since 1972
OUR FURNACE BUYERS SAID:
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As nice, courteous, and helpful a
sellers as you will EVER find! Great furnace too!
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would recommend excellent service
thanks guys
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a++++++
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Wood Boiler seems like a great unit. Yet to hook it up. Smooth
Process!
-
honest and very helpful seller
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Why buy a HyProTherm Outdoor
Furnace? |
HyProTherm |
The others |
We make it simple without a lot of expensive
electronics to break |
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NO |
We make it user serviceable. Anyone can maintain
our furnace! |
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NO |
We use an $8 thermostat available at any hardware
store, not a $100 electronic circuit board |
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NO |
We use a simple mechanical fill valve - not
electronic. Just flip it on for 20 seconds, once a week |
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NO |
We make our firebox to last! Ours is thicker than
everyone else's! .380 (3/8") vs .1.25 - .250 inch. We
have a 1/2" option too. |
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NO |
We give accurate BTU ratings using an established scientific formula.
They say what sounds good. |
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NO |
We have 2 flood light motion detector light on the front |
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NO |
We have a fan not a simple damper to fuel the fire
with oxygen. More complete burning |
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Some |
Our fan is in the back, behind a door, where you
can't get shocked AND it blows the air through the grate into
the bottom of the fire NOT into the side of the fire! Fires burn
from the bottom up, right? |
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NO |
Customer Replaceable POTABLE Hot water coil. Many others
don't even have one!
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NO |
Our pump only runs on demand NOT 24 hours a day as with the
others! |
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NO |
We have been building fine energy efficient furnaces for
44 years! |
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NO |
Our grate uses 3/4" Bar Stock! |
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NO |
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Model 185 - Rated
to Heat up to 5000 sq. ft.
BURN TIMES
As a test of burn
times, the owner of HyProTherm Furnace took the thermostat off his
25 year-old furnace, and hot-wired the fan, so that the fire would rage at maximum burn
24 hours a day.
Yet he still only has to load
it every 12 hours. Otherwise he goes as long as 24 hours without
loading it.
(Heating 5,000 sq. ft with a 4,000 sq. ft. model
Don't believe the hype and mis-information about 42-98 hour burn times. This is only true in
the summer. |
Click
on Picture for a Larger Image
Get the Bugs, Dirt, Wood
and Smoke outside.
Your lungs will love you
and your
Insurance Company
will too!
Many people are getting lower insurance rates. |
Extra large, 2 foot by 2 foot opening, waist high loading door.
No more bending over, straining your back
to load wood! Safety latch for easy closing and the utmost safety!
We feel we build the safest furnace
(nothing electrical outside). We have the BEST PRICES and a Very
Friendly Staff to help you every step
of the way.
ALL furnaces now come with a
double flood light on the front for ease of loading the wood.
Not only that, it's a MOTION
LIGHT!
No switches. No forgetting to
turn it off.
If it's dark outside and you go near the furnace, it turns on!
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Think the door's not big
enough?
Think again! A 16" round log, 30" long log will weigh
112lb! That is more than most people can ever lift!
Trust me, the door
is more than big enough
for anything
you can lift into the furnace without skinning your knuckles AND the door edge will
take a pounding
as you throw them in! |
26.5 inch door with a 24" x 24" opening; weighing a hefty 165 lb,
with motor mount style hinges!
The TOUGHEST
door you'll ever find with TWO 1/4" solid steel plates separated
by a 3" air shield, stuffed with insulation!
This plate keeps the hot air in and
deflects it off the door. With very little metal (as small as 4 bolts) to transfer
heat to the door it does an excellent job of insulating the
door.
Very heavy duty, motor mount type hinges! OURS won't fall
off!
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Click
on Picture for a Larger Image
Having
the chimney come down low, stops the heat from going right out the
chimney!
We NOW HAVE CAST IRON GRATES
(shown above) AVAILABLE at $30-$120
STANDARD on all
COAL MODELS
Click
on Picture for a Larger Image
The
wood
grate (above) is made out of 3/4" inch
bar stock. Now THAT is THICK! |
.375"
Thick Steel Firebox - 3/8th OF AN INCH.
WILL NOT burn through - EVER!
1/2"
firebox upgrade available for just $175;
WILL NOT burn through - EVER!
Compare Firebox thickness
to another popular furnace at only 0.13"
That's 288% thicker!
We have a PULL-OUT ash pan! Some
other makes don't even have an ash pan or any way to clean out the
ashes, other than opening the loading door and facing 800 degree
PLUS of heat!! That makes it HARD to
clean out! You have to let the fire die down or move the
burning wood aside to scoop out hot ashes. OUCH!
It is
non-removable but is easily cleaned at the front through the door
with a small shovel.
Only one seam in
cylinder that make up the firebox so it doesn't
weaken the structure, break or warp. It is made of a
solid piece of tubular steel!
It will not RUST through in a
lifetime! Will not split and crack like Stainless Steel!
We have furnaces 30 years old and
more, still in use today!
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Actual photo of a fire inside our firebox
only minutes after reloading with wood!
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Firebox size is 34" wide x 30"
high x 34" deep (185 model)
Up to double the length (and wood volume) on the 350 model.
It is surrounded with 185 - 350 gallons of
water except on our smaller ECONO 85 and 100 models; 85
and 100 gallons of water respectively - absorbing the maximum amount
of heat possible!
The chimney is also surrounded
by water, capturing heat that would otherwise be lost!
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Click on
Picture for a Larger Image
The
pump, fan and thermostat included
have a one to five-year
warranty.
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Comes
STANDARD with TRIPLE
Hookup for
heating a Home AND a shop / garage / apartment AND potable Hot
Water too!
CONSUMER
REPLACEABLE Potable
Water Coil (50
foot 5/8" OD Copper) carries hot water, heated by the water reservoir directly to your hot water heater. We
show you how! No
separate heat exchanger is needed!! This saves you $300.00 by
the time you add an anti-scald valve, needed on other models.
Pump
only runs on demand - NOT 24 hours a day like others!
Again,
this is potable (drinkable) water.
We
use state-of-the-art Solar
Guard insulation all around the water jacket!
Solar Guard is only 1/4" thick but combines a thermal
break, reflective insulation and an insulating layer of R11.6!
It has backing on both sides and is aluminum foil backed on one
side. We then insulate on top of that with R11 vinyl-backed fiberglass in the
walls and ceiling!
TRIPLE
INSULATED (R50) ON TOP - like a passive Solar house. You cannot feel the heat when you touch
the siding!
That
gives you R22.6 in the walls and now R50 in the ceiling!
http://www.silvercote.com/solarguard_reflective_insulation.php
http://www.silvercote.com/PDF/solarguardspec.pdf
|
Click
on Picture for a Larger Image We
have a removable ash pan that is 16" wide x 30-69 " long and
is 6" deep. It is
easily cleaned at the front through the door with a small
shovel.
Many
furnaces don't even have an ash pan, so you have to let the fire
die down or shove the burning wood aside to clean them out!
Water surrounds the ash pan as well, extracting all the
heat from
the red hot coals.
The
chimney is low on the firebox and exits about 1 foot from the
bottom, so that the smoke - or more importantly, the heat - is
trapped so that it doesn't quickly escape out the flue. That
would be a big loss of efficiency.
This is also a better idea since you don't have baffles getting a
creosote buildup on them.
This also
creates a HUGE secondary burn chamber, to more completely burn the gases and
wood! When wood starts to burn, it is the gas that burns first!
Another
advantage is that the chimney exits through the water, further
heating it up - for free!
Nothing does better!
As you can see, the firebox made from a single piece of steel,
formed with a 430-ton press brake. This requires only 4 welds
instead of 12 welds in a traditional square or rectangular box.
The forced-air fan is in the back - feeding oxygen into the
bottom of the fire - like a blacksmith's forge. Seen to
right >>>
The lower section is the ash receptacle.
I clean mine just once a MONTH by unlatching the ash tray door. - without disturbing
the fire.
The firebox is surrounded by water - top, sides, front and back!
You can see that the chimney goes up through the water, further
extracting the heat.
Our chimney drops down in
the firebox 14", trapping in the heat and gases, to maximize heat
transfer and ensuring you're not heating the outside air! This
huge secondary burn chambers allows you to burn off all the gases
that first ignite, when you throw in a new piece of wood. This is
valuable heat, normally lost.
|
185
gallon tank on our most popular model! Many
manufacturers only use 90-125 gallon tanks! The size is critical
when heating a larger home.
DON'T BELIEVE it when they say
they can heat 4,000 sq. ft. and have 300,000 BTU. That's
impossible without heating the water to over 300 degrees! We can heat a house with a water temperature of
just 140 degrees as opposed to 160-180 degrees in a competitor's with
a smaller tank. Larger tanks also allow faster recovery and
heating plus a reserve.
Water
tank is made from 3/16" thick
metal - 3 times thicker than many others using
only 16 gauge.
< There is an air handler/blower
that feeds air into the firebox, below the grate, to feed oxygen
to the fire - just like a blacksmith does it. It is thermostatically controlled to keep the water
at a set temperature that you can adjust. This takes place of an
inefficient
manual draft opening/hole on a Central Boiler
|
Click
on Picture for a Larger Image |
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Click on
Picture for a Larger Image Our
furnace is so strong and well-made, that the
chimney alone is strong enough to carry the 1600 lb. weight of the
furnace!
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Exterior is
made of Heavy Duty Metal Roofing - 29 gauge structural quality, full-hard
steel. 10 layers of protective coating. It
has a Lifetime film integrity Warranty
for walls and roof and a 30 year warranty against fade and chalk.
10 year edge rust warranty against acid rain.
20 colors to best
suit your surroundings! Mix and match the roof, sides and corners.
There
are legs on the bottom with a skirt surrounding the bottom to
ground level.
The chimney is made out of 1/4"
wall, schedule 40 pipe and is surrounded by water. It tops out at
about 6 feet above ground. You can EASILY add an extension with
standard 6" stove-pipe |
Click on Picture for a Larger Image
to see hookup detail.
These furnaces are shown without the door for
easier viewing but ALL come with a door!
|
Extra
Large rear access door. All electrical items are in back, safely
behind a door!
Water
and electrical hookups.
The
easiest furnace for the self-installer to put in!
Click on
picture to bottom left to see hookup detail.
Single output shown to left but all come with 2 pump hookup (as
shown below) at NO EXTRA CHARGE plus hot water coil and hookup.
Click on
Picture for a Larger Image
|
Click
on Picture for a Larger Image
The blower in the back is a
great aid in getting a fire started. It also recovers the water
temperature much quicker, and burns the
wood up more completely
because oxygen is being fed to the bottom of the flame - like
a blacksmith
feeds his fire!
|
View through ash pan door. Air blower inlet.
(seen in back of this picture)
The air blower determines how hot the fire
burns and therefore how hot the water gets. A thermostat ($5-8
at your local hardware store) on the
back of the water jacket tells the blower when to turn on and
off, so it doesn't run all the time and waste wood..
This is a LOT more efficient than a damper!
The air blows into the bottom of the fire,
through the grate!
That's better than blowing in from the front - into the side of
the fire, as all others do.
You get more complete
burning from a fire where the oxygen is fed through the bottom
as opposed to blowing over the fire from the side, like others
that have that big box on the door!
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INSTALLATION KIT - Typical
For one heat exchanger - 50 ft.
from furnace
You will need one in and one return line
per heat exchanger or hot water heater plus one run for the
water fill.
|
Outside |
3 x 50' = 150' Pex Pipe
|
$150.00 |
|
50' 12/3 wire |
36.00 |
|
8 quest fittings |
51.04 |
|
2 flanges |
39.28 |
|
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$276.32 |
|
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Inside |
Sheet metal (Rarely needed, if a heat
exchanger won't fit your plenum) |
31.00 |
|
1/4 HP blower (only if heating a shop
or garage or a space without an existing furnace) |
225.00 |
|
Heat Exchanger (100,000 Btu) |
195.00 |
|
1-line Thermostat |
19.80 |
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50' 12/2 wire |
24.00 |
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110 V 20 Amp breaker |
20.00 |
|
4 hrs labor for duct work
(only if needed for heat
exchanger to fit) We now have custom-made heat
exchangers! |
120.00 |
|
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$260 - 635 |
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Total:
$576 - $911
Prices will vary depending on
supplier and locale
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Installation
Kit
Items can be purchased
locally or you can purchase the pipe and heat exchanger directly
from our supplier, which reduces shipping costs.
Their heat exchangers have a Lifetime Warranty
and his Pex Pipe is A or C Grade Pex - not cheap imported B
grade stuff.
They also has a nice install kit.
Kits will vary
depending on the number of feet from your house. Other
variables include heating your hot water or adding a 2nd heat
exchanger for a separate building. This will require more pipe
and a separate pump and thermostat in most cases. Pumps are $140
each. Heat exchangers are about the $195 for 165,000 BTU (varies
with size, many are less) and there are many being sold here on eBay!
The average cost for
installation (labor) based on average specs is $437.17
If you do some work yourself, it
would be a lot less. Many places allow you to be your own
contractor. Most people can do at least 90% of the installation
themselves.
This will vary depending on
your local rate and location.
Don't forget a concrete
pad, approx 4" thick.
It will take only ½ yard
for a 4'x10' pad (approx 4" thick), giving you a nice place
to stand and load wood.
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Start with a small piece of wood.
:o) Seriously, you
can use these bigger, cheaper pieces or smaller ones - whatever
you can easily handle. The bigger
ones require less cutting and splitting so they cost less -
about $80-90 a cord in most areas.
ANY wood is
cheaper than oil, gas and electricity! One person said that they
have never used their propane heater after propane prices
tripled!
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Shove the logs in on top of each other.
Use the poker for safety to push them in.
(That big
pile of ashes may make the door seem low - but it isn't!)
Thought there wasn't a fire?
Think again!
Within a couple of minutes -
literally -
this fire was roaring!
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BURNING COAL!
We have had a customer (Pete) burning coal in his furnace the
past 2 winters!
He
puts 8-10 shovels in, about to the bottom of the door, heaping
in the middle )about 9". This little bit will last him 12-16 hours
he said!
Pete said
that one of the advantages of coal are that it heats up
faster. He can come home late to a dead fire and the water
cooled off (he's a truck driver) and can have heat in 20
minutes!
The
coal also lasts longer than wood. Pete
often mixes wood, putting it on top of the coal and it works
VERY well, he said.
Pete
is heating a 3300 sq. ft house and a 1000 sq ft garage with 12
foot ceilings - so an equivalent of 1500 sq. ft plus
3300 plus his hot water. 4800 sq. ft total.
The
garage stays at 70 degrees even when it's below 0 outside!
To
top it all off, his furnace is 325 feet from his house!! He's
a happy camper...
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We will build YOUR furnace in any of 20 exciting
colors
or any combination thereof!
EXAMPLES:
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CLICK ON PICTURES for a LARGER IMAGE
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Click on picture for a
Larger Image
We can also build your furnace
so that you can apply regular siding, brick,
faux (cultured) stone or almost anything else.
We can also build them without
siding for a savings of $200,
for those who want to put them in an outbuilding.
Questions
about Stainless Steel answered
Do you build with stainless steel?
Hi!
No, we don't build
stainless for several really good reasons.
Our furnaces last longer than stainless with MANY furnaces still
in use after 30 years plus!!
1. Mild steel transfers heat better than stainless does.
2. Stainless is a great sales feature, but little else, since
most companies use cheap stainless, like a car's exhaust system.
There are many grades of stainless out there.
3. Since stainless is so expensive, the fireboxes are made
really thin. Some are no thicker than the metal in a 55 gallon
barrel or the thickness of a trailer fender!! That's why you see
so many split and broken apart.
Our firebox is almost .400 inches thick as opposed to .200 in
many furnaces. The Heatmor furnace is only .102" thin. Ours
is almost 1/2 inch!! They never rust through.
We just replaced a Hardy a week or so ago and there are many
leaking Central Boilers and Hardys on eBay for sale, that are
leaking.
4. Stainless is more prone to stress cracks, so why use it?
5. Unless the stainless is retreated after welding, you've lost
all of it's properties through the heating of the metal. And
it's being welded to mild steel anyway, so what's the use?
Like I said, it's a great sales feature but our super thick mild
steel furnace heats better, doesn't crack and split - and last
longer!
If stainless was better, we'd surely be using it after 44 years
of experience.
Best regards,
Ben
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.
SAFETY!
The potential for electrical shock is something we have tried to totally eliminate. That is why unlike our competitor's stoves, our stoves do not have electrical control boxes, draft fans, etc., on the outside. We believe these impose too much risk should a problem ever
arise. We also believe that to have anything too complicated on a wood furnace is unnecessary. We have made our furnaces to be simple, and
reliable and we have proven that with 38 years of use.
We do not have complicated self-fill, or water level indicators on our furnaces. They are simply
things to wear out or malfunction requiring costly service and repairs. We install a simple manual valve which you turn on until water runs out the overflow, and
flip back off. SIMPLE! (This takes about 10 seconds.)
These stoves were developed by us, for our own use. We started making them for others slowly and now our stoves are well known locally for their simplicity, and their maintenance-free operation.
HyProTherm has sold several thousand in their county alone! We are sure that if you purchase one of our stoves you will be completely satisfied with our stove throughout its long service life which you will enjoy.
Hot Water Wood Furnaces are indeed the very best heating choice. We are positive that a few years down the road when others are making costly repairs to the overly complex system they purchased from
one of our competitors, you will be quite comfortable and enjoying your new cost effective
HyProTherm's Hot Water Wood Furnace.
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About us:
HyProTherm Furnace is a
privately held company and was originally established in 1972 as a local Heating and Air business which dates back to 1950.
Billy and his Dad, Gerald were in the heating and air business for
decades. They began to develop their first prototype
for their own home, in the 60's. Gerald
knew there had to be a better way than to pay for oil, even
though it was cheap back then. His main concern however, was to get
rid of the smoke and ashes in the house. It was obvious it could cause
serious health problems. Besides the soot all over the place was a
chore to clean.
Having
the wood outside already, made the plan simple. Put the wood stove
outside! Stick something like a heater core from a car in the plenum and
it would radiate heat - and the hot water could be pumped from the
outside. He developed a model for himself and continued to improve on it
over the years. In 1972 he decided to start selling the furnaces and an
industry was born. They were indeed the first. The last
major revision was made in 1978 but the most recent one is a major innovation but the furnacebasic design remains unchanged today. Now Gerald's son Billy heads up the business.
We have been in business manufacuring boilers for 44 years and we are
a family run business. We have sold THOUSANDS of furnaces across the
country. We are a brick and mortar
business in Salem Arkansas - and we are here to
stay.
We stand behind the quality of our furnaces 100%. We believe that we can give
you a quality furnace and
save you hundreds if not thousands of dollars
at the same time.
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1/1/18
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