As a test of burn times, the owner of HyProTherm Furnace took the thermostat off his 25 year-old furnace, and hot-wired the fan, so that the fire would rage at maximum burn 24 hours a day. 

Yet he still only has to load it every 12 hours. Otherwise he goes as long as 24 hours without loading it.

(Heating 5,000 sq. ft with an older 4,000 sq. ft. model

Don't believe the hype and mis-information about 42-98 hour burn times. This is only true in the summer.

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Get the Bugs, Dirt, Wood
and Smoke outside. 
Your lungs will love you
and your Insurance Company will too!

Many people are getting lower insurance rates.

No more bending over, straining your back to load wood! Safety latch for easy closing and the utmost safety!

We feel we build the safest furnace (nothing electrical outside). We have the BEST PRICES and a Very Friendly Staff to help you every step of the way.

ALL furnaces now come with a double flood light on the front for ease of loading the wood.

Not only that, it's a MOTION LIGHT!

No switches. No forgetting to turn it off. If it's dark outside and you go near the furnace, it turns on!

Think the door's not big enough? 

Think again! A 16" round log, 30" long log will weigh 112lb! That is more than most people can ever lift!

Trust me, the door is more than big enough for anything you can lift into the furnace without skinning your knuckles AND the door edge will take a pounding
as you throw them in!

26.5 inch door with a 24" x 24" opening; weighing a hefty 165 lb, with motor mount style hinges! 

The TOUGHEST door you'll ever find with TWO 1/4" solid steel plates separated by a 3" air shield, stuffed with K-factor 1800 degree insulation!

Very heavy duty, motor mount type hinges! OURS won't fall off!

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Having the chimney come down low, stops the heat from going right out the chimney!

We NOW HAVE CAST IRON GRATES
(shown above)

STANDARD on all
COAL and PRO MODELS

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The wood grate (above) is made out of 3/4" inch bar stock. Now THAT is THICK!

.375" Thick Steel Firebox - 3/8th OF AN INCH. WILL NOT burn through - EVER!

1/2" firebox upgrade available for just $499-997 (CALL); WILL NOT burn through - EVER!

Compare Firebox thickness to another popular furnace  at only 0.13" 

That's 288% thicker!

We have a PULL-OUT ash pan! Some other makes don't even have grates or an ash pan or any way to clean out the ashes, other than opening the loading door and facing 800 degree PLUS of heat!! That makes it HARD to clean out! You have to let the fire die down  or move the burning wood aside to scoop out hot ashes. OUCH!

It is non-removable but is easily cleaned at the front through the door with a small shovel.

Only one seam in cylinder that make up the firebox so it doesn't weaken the structure, break or warp. It is made of a solid piece of tubular steel!

It will not RUST through in a lifetime! Will not split and crack like Stainless Steel!

 We have furnaces 30 years old and more, still in use today!

Actual photo of a fire inside our firebox only minutes after reloading with wood!

Firebox size is 34" wide x 30" high x 34" deep (185 model)

Up to double the length (and wood volume) on the FLRH-350 and 400 models.

It is surrounded with 185 - 403 gallons of water except on our smaller ECONO 85 and 100 models;  85 and 100 gallons of water respectively -  absorbing the maximum amount of heat possible!

The chimney is also surrounded by water, capturing heat that would otherwise be lost!

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The pump, fan and thermostat included
have a one to five-year warranty.

Comes STANDARD with TRIPLE Hookup for heating a Home AND a shop / garage / apartment AND potable Hot Water too!

CONSUMER REPLACEABLE  Potable Water Coil (50 foot 5/8" OD Copper) carries hot water, heated by the water reservoir directly to your hot water heater. We show you how! No separate heat exchanger is needed!! This saves you $300.00 by the time you add an anti-scald valve, needed on other models. 

Pump only runs on demand - NOT 24 hours a day like others! 

Again, this is potable (drinkable) water.

We use K-Factor insulation plus state-of-the-art Solar Guard insulation on top of it!

Solar Guard is only 1/4" thick but combines a thermal break, reflective insulation and an insulating layer of R11.6! It has backing on both sides and is aluminum foil backed on one side. We then insulate on top of that with R11 vinyl-backed fiberglass in the walls and ceiling! 

TRIPLE INSULATED (the equivalent of R57) ON TOP - like a passive Solar house. You cannot feel the heat when you touch the siding!

That gives you R23 in the walls and now R57 in the ceiling!

http://www.silvercote.com/solarguard_reflective_insulation.php

http://www.silvercote.com/PDF/solarguardspec.pdf

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We have a removable ash pan that is 16" wide x 30-69 " long and
is 6" deep. It is easily cleaned at the front through the door with a small shovel.

Many furnaces don't even have an ash pan, so you have to let the fire die down or shove the burning wood aside to clean them out!

Water surrounds the ash pan as well, extracting all the heat from the red hot coals.

The chimney is low on the firebox and exits about 1 foot from the bottom, so that the smoke - or more importantly, the heat - is trapped so that it doesn't quickly escape out the flue. That would be a big loss of efficiency. This is also a better idea since you don't have baffles getting a creosote buildup on them.

This also creates a HUGE secondary burn chamber, to more completely burn the gases and wood! When wood starts to burn, it is the gas that burns first!

Another advantage is that the chimney exits through the water, further heating it up - for free!
  Nothing does better!

As you can see, the firebox made from a single piece of steel, formed with a 430-ton press brake. This requires only 4 welds instead of 12 welds in a  traditional square or rectangular box.

The forced-air fan is in the back - feeding oxygen into the bottom of the fire - like a blacksmith's forge.  Seen to right >>>

The lower section is the ash receptacle. 
I clean mine just once a MONTH by unlatching the ash tray door. - without disturbing the fire.

The firebox is surrounded by water - top, sides, front and back!

You can see that the chimney goes up through the water, further extracting the heat.

Our chimney drops down in the firebox 14", trapping in the heat and gases, to maximize heat transfer and ensuring you're not heating the outside air! This huge secondary burn chambers allows you to burn off all the gases that first ignite, when you throw in a new piece of wood. This is valuable heat, normally lost.

185 gallon tank on our most popular model!

Many manufacturers only use 90-125 gallon tanks! The size is critical when heating a larger home. 

DON'T BELIEVE it when they say they can heat 4,000 sq. ft. and have 300,000 BTU. That's impossible without heating the water to over 300 degrees!

We can heat a house with a water temperature of just 140 degrees as opposed to 160-180 degrees in a competitor's with a smaller tank. Larger tanks also allow faster recovery and heating plus a reserve.

Water tank is made from 3/16" thick metal - 3 times thicker than many others using only 16 gauge.

< There is a 75 CFM air handler/blower that feeds air into the firebox, below the grate, to feed oxygen to the fire - just like a blacksmith does it. It is thermostatically controlled to keep the water at a set temperature that you can adjust.
This takes place of an inefficient manual draft opening/hole on a Central Boiler

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Our furnace is so strong and well-made, that the chimney alone is strong enough to carry the 1875 lb. weight of theis furnace and the 3680 lb. weight od the FLRH-400!

Exterior is made of Heavy Duty Metal Roofing - 29 gauge structural quality, full-hard steel. 10 layers of protective coating. It has a Lifetime film integrity Warranty for walls and roof and a 30 year warranty against fade and chalk. 10 year edge rust warranty against acid rain.

21 colors to best suit your surroundings! Mix and match the roof, sides and corners.

There are legs on the bottom with a skirt surrounding the bottom to ground level.

The chimney is made out of 1/4" wall, schedule 40 pipe and is surrounded by water. It tops out at about 6 feet above ground. You can EASILY add an extension with standard 6" stove-pipe

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to see hookup detail.

These furnaces are shown without the door for easier viewing but ALL come with a door!

Extra Large rear access door. All electrical items are in back, safely behind a door! 

Water and electrical hookups. 

The easiest furnace for the self-installer to put in!

Click on picture to bottom left to see hookup detail.

Single output shown to left but all come with 2 pump hookup (as shown below) at NO EXTRA CHARGE plus hot water coil and hookup.

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The blower in the back is a great aid in getting a fire started. It also recovers the water temperature much quicker, and burns the wood up more completely because oxygen is being fed to the bottom of the flame - like a blacksmith
feeds his fire!

The air blower determines how hot the fire burns and therefore how hot the water gets. A thermostat ($5-8 at your local hardware store) on the back of the water jacket tells the blower when to turn on and off, so it doesn't run all the time and waste wood..

This is a LOT more efficient than a damper!

The air blows into the bottom of the fire, through the grate! That's better than blowing in from the front - into the side of the fire, as all others do.

You get more complete burning from a fire where the oxygen is fed through the bottom as opposed to blowing over the fire from the side, like others that have that big box on the door!

Items can be purchased locally or you can purchase the pipe and heat exchanger directly from our supplier, which reduces shipping costs.

Their heat exchangers have a Lifetime Warranty and his Pex Pipe is A or C Grade Pex - not cheap imported B grade stuff.

They also has a nice install kit.

Kits will vary depending on the number of feet from your house. Other variables include heating your hot water or adding a 2nd heat exchanger for a separate building. This will require more pipe and a separate pump and thermostat in most cases. Pumps are $140 each. Heat exchangers are about the $195 for 165,000 BTU (varies with size, many are less) and there are many being sold here on eBay!

The average cost for installation (labor) based on average specs is $437.17

If you do some work yourself, it would be a lot less. Many places allow you to be your own contractor. Most people can do at least 90% of the installation themselves.

This will vary depending on your local rate and location.

Don't forget a concrete pad, approx 4" thick.

It will take only ½ yard for a 4'x10' pad (approx 4" thick), giving you a nice place to stand and load wood.

Start with a small piece of wood.  :o)

Seriously, you can use these bigger, cheaper pieces or smaller ones - whatever you can easily handle. The bigger ones require less cutting and splitting so they cost less - about $80-90 a cord in most areas.

ANY wood is cheaper than oil, gas and electricity! One person said that they have never used their propane heater after propane prices tripled!

Shove the logs in on top of each other.

Use the poker for safety to push them in.

(That big pile of ashes may make the door seem low - but it isn't!)

Thought there wasn't a fire?

Think again!

Within a couple of minutes - literally -  this fire was roaring!

We will build YOUR furnace in any combination of 21 exciting colors
(17 at NO CHARGE!)

EXAMPLES:

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We can also build your furnace so that you can apply regular siding, brick, faux (cultured) stone or almost anything else.

We can also build them without siding for a savings of $200, for those who want to put them in an outbuilding.

Questions about Stainless Steel answered

Do you build with stainless steel?

Hi! 

No, we don't build stainless for several really good reasons.

Our furnaces last longer than stainless with MANY furnaces still in use after 30 years plus!!

1. Mild steel transfers heat better than stainless does.

2. Stainless is a great sales feature, but little else, since most companies use cheap stainless, like a car's exhaust system.

There are many grades of stainless out there.

3. Since stainless is so expensive, the fireboxes are made really thin. Some are no thicker than the metal in a 55 gallon barrel or the thickness of a trailer fender!! That's why you see so many split and broken apart.

Our firebox is almost .400 inches thick as opposed to .200 in many furnaces. The Heatmor furnace is only .102" thin. Ours is almost 1/2 inch!! They never rust through.

We just replaced a Hardy a week or so ago and there are many leaking Central Boilers and Hardys on eBay for sale, that are leaking.

4. Stainless is more prone to stress cracks, so why use it?

5. Unless the stainless is retreated after welding, you've lost all of it's properties through the heating of the metal. And it's being welded to mild steel anyway, so what's the use?

Like I said, it's a great sales feature but our super thick mild steel furnace heats better, doesn't crack and split - and last longer!

If stainless was better, we'd surely be using it after 49 years of experience.

Best regards,

Ben

.
SAFETY!

The potential for electrical shock is something we have tried to totally eliminate. That is why unlike our competitor's stoves, our stoves do not have electrical control boxes, draft fans, etc., on the outside. We believe these impose too much risk should a problem ever arise. We also believe that to have anything too complicated on a wood furnace is unnecessary. We have made our furnaces to be simple, and reliable and we have proven that with 49 years of use.

We do not have complicated self-fill, or water level indicators on our furnaces. They are simply things to wear out or malfunction requiring costly service and repairs. We install a simple manual valve which you turn on until water runs out the overflow, and flip back off. SIMPLE! (This takes about 10 seconds.)

These stoves were developed by us, for our own use. We started making them for others slowly and now our stoves are well known locally for their simplicity, and their maintenance-free operation. HyProTherm has sold several thousand in their county alone! We are sure that if you purchase one of our stoves you will be completely satisfied with our stove throughout its long service life which you will enjoy.

Hot Water Wood Furnaces are indeed the very best heating choice. We are positive that a few years down the road when others are making costly repairs to the overly complex system they purchased from one of our competitors, you will be quite comfortable and enjoying your new cost effective HyProTherm's Hot Water Wood Furnace.